Nutritional Outlook

Nutritional Outlook, September 2013

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Beauty Pretty Picks Natural product companies talk ingredient choices. Sea buckthorn T he natural beauty product business shows no signs of slowing. According to market researcher SPINS, the natural and specialty body care market saw more than $1.9 billion in sales in 2012—a 17% growth over the previous year. To satisfy consumers' clamoring, natural beauty brands continue to focus on launching alluring new product lines. When picking ingredients, some beauty marketers are looking for the next "trendy" addition; still, others stick with longstanding ingredients backed by years of research. "We never choose ingredients based on a trend; we always look to published research," says Bryan Barron, who leads the research team at Paula's Choice, a company founded by beauty expert and so-called "Cosmetics Cop" Paula Begoun. Begoun is author of Don't Go to the Beauty Counter Without Me, and she helps consumers decipher ingredient labels, providing advice about which beauty products will work and which are "formulated to fail." Candace Chen, founder of FaceLube, a men's antiaging skincare brand, says she doesn't pay attention to trends either when choosing ingredients for her products. "We don't try to catch our customers' attention by just calling out an ingredient that sounds cool, because we have to be able to explain what the ingredient does and why it's there [in the product]." Men, she says, care just as much as women do about the ingredients they put on their face. FaceLube's ingredient suppliers keep the company abreast of new science. "Our sup- Sourcing MAtterS The Earth Sourced collection by Paula's Choice is formulated to contain 90% natural ingredients. 52 magenta cyan yellow black No matter how many benefcial natural ingredients you add to a formulation, if the ingredients weren't properly processed, they can signifcantly lower a natural beauty product's effectiveness. "There is always a concern, when extracting a vitamin or other substance from a plant, that stability will be diminished during processing," says Barron of Paula's Choice. "For example, an ingredient such as vitamin C from a sea buckthorn berry could end up being just a fraction of what it was before processing. So there is a lot to be said about stability and using the right processing methods." continued on page 54. pliers know that we like new and cuttingedge ingredients that are backed by clinical studies, so when they have something new, they will send us information and samples," says Chen. "We then take this information and do our own research in-house to decide which ingredients to incorporate in our nextgeneration lineup." David Parker, cofounder of Te Body Deli, which uses raw, natural, and organic ingredients, says that a trendy ingredient can be a valuable asset when it comes to marketing, but consumers often relate to an ingredient that has a certain level of familiarity. "It's all about keywords today, as in a Google search," says Parker. "Tat's how consumers shop and fnd information. If we use an ingredient no one has ever heard of, the consumer really won't go for it." Te Body Deli is a great example of a brand turning to an ingredient that has existed for a long time. Te company uses one of the oldest cultivated fruits on earth, the Medjool date. "Dates are nourishing to the skin, and they help to bind moisture," says Parker. "Tere has been a lot of research done on them as a new superfruit that contains higher levels of antioxidants than some more well-known fruits. Plus, I was looking for ingredients that would refect the environment of [the company's hometown] Palm Springs, California, and dates are so prevalent here that it made sense to use them in formulations." Nearly a world away from Palm Springs, Indigena is another beauty brand that uses ingredients inspired by its hometown, Newfoundland. Indigena recently launched its SEPTEMBER 2013 ■ VAlENTYNVolkoV/iSTockPhoTo.coM BY MARIE REDDING NUTRITIONAL OUTLOOK ES315750_NO1309_052.pgs 09.04.2013 04:17 UBM

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